2.8 w/ DIS Crank Scraper

Product Information

Ishihara-Johnson crank scrapers are a very simple but effective way to improve the performance of your engine!

During normal engine operation a significant amount of oil adheres to or becomes entrained in a cloud surrounding the spinning bottom end. This oil eats up horsepower your engine is making by increasing the rotating mass and also creating parasitic drag. A crank scraper mechanically strips off excess oil by coming close to, but not touching*, the moving crankshaft and rods. It also interferes with the pressure differential that draws oil into the so-called windage cloud.

Our crank scrapers are constructed from 12 gauge mild steel (about .10? or 2.5mm thick) and include installation instructions.

 Crank Scraper Installation on Chevrolet 60 Degree V6 2.8, 3.1, 3.4  

·        DO NOT USE THE STARTER MOTOR WHEN TRIAL FITTING THE SCRAPER!

 ·        Drain oil from pan and remove pan from the engine block.  Thoroughly clean the oil pan gasket surfaces on both the block and the pan.   

·        Remove the oil pump from the block. 

·        Remove the spark plugs.  This will make rotating the engine during trial fitting easier.  

·        Check to see that the thrust clearance or endplay on the crank is within specs.  If this is not the case, you will need to install fresh thrust bearings.  When fitting the scraper as described below always remember to push the crank to both extremes and check for proper clearance through full rotations of the engine.   

·        Trial fit the scraper by removing all the main bearing cap bolts on the side of the engine shown in the above picture. Bolt the scraper gently and loosely into place with the main bearing bolts.   

·        There should not be any interference with the crank, rods, main bearing caps, and so on but you may have to shift the scraper around the slightly loose mounting bolts to achieve this.   

·        REPEAT: DO NOT USE THE STARTER MOTOR WHEN TRIAL FITTING THE SCRAPER!

 ·        Slowly and gently rotate the crank through a full 360 degrees.  While you are doing this, carefully watch with a small light to see that all the rotating parts maintain at least a 1 mm (.040”) clearance with the scraper on all sides.  

·        If, despite your careful shifting of the scraper, there are still parts that come into contact or are too close then you will need to file or grind that area of the scraper until the proper clearance is achieved.  Be careful not to bend the sheet steel when doing this and remember to clean off any metal shavings.

 ·        You may want to mark this final position of the scraper relative to the block/caps with a scribe or marker.  

·        Remove one bolt at a time and apply Loctite 271 (medium strength thread sealant) to its threads and rethread it into place.  In this way the scraper will not move since it still has four bolts holding it in its original position.  Torque the main bearing bolts in progressive steps, making sure that the scraper does not move. Double-check that there is no interference during full rotations of the engine.  

·        Gently set the oil pan into place and make sure that it will seat without interfering with the scraper.  If there is interference then file or grind that portion of the scraper or adjust the body of the pan outward.  Do not disturb the alignment of the scraper while you are doing this.   

·        Set the oil pan aside for a moment and reinstall the oil pump.  Do not forget to replace the long drive shaft if you have removed it.  

·        If you have the later style engine with the windage tray you should reinstall it at this time.

 ·        Install a fresh oil pan gasket and bolt up the pan.  

·        One last time, rotate the crank to ensure nothing is contacting the scraper.  Fill the pan to the proper level with oil and re-install the spark plugs.  Start engine normally. 

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Price: $57.99

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